Greek Heritage and Florida's National Seashore
New Smyrna Beach and Mosquito Lagoon
10.01.2005 - 10.01.2005
View
Summer, 9-11-2001 - and then the 2nd time down the ICW
& 2005 Migrating by Mercedes
& Bermuda
on greatgrandmaR's travel map.
Monday, January 10th
Since Bob thought he had fixed the Mercedes's problem, we returned the rental car to Enterprise. It cost $26.13 for the two days, which was pretty cheap (a half cent less than $13.07/day for those like me that are math challenged).
Then I went to find the Canaveral National Seashore office, which was on Julia Street in Titusville. It was there, but it looked abandoned - locked up tight and no sign of life, although we didn't ring the bell to be admitted. I had thought I could get some information there.
Canaveral National Seashore headquarters
I took a photo of the historic courthouse,
Titusville Courthouse
Historic theatre
and the steeples of some churches which I found out later that one of them has a Tiffany window so I want to go back and see that from inside.
St Gabriel's steeple
Bob got fuel in the car (diesel was only $2.099 there) and we started out for New Smyrna. I wanted to visit New Smyrna for two reasons.
1) I have been checking to see how the marinas fared. The New Smyrna Municipal Marina was a particularly unusual one, and I could see from the ICW that there was a CSY like our boat there. I couldn't see the name of it from our boat though, and thought I might find that out.
2) We have only been there once by boat, and I did not take any pictures of the waterfront or the historic markers.
Our only visit by boat
Flashback 2000, December 11-12 A Refuge for the Exhausted
In 2000, after we left Port Orange, where we had a hair raising experience with the current in a marina, I started calling Smyrna marinas. All of them were full except the yacht club which only took other yacht club members and the town marina, and that was a co-op. There is no dockmaster, and they don't monitor the radio. They had 2 transient slips. If we got there and they were open, we could stay there. If someone else got there first, we couldn't stay there. Then we would have to anchor behind Chicken Island, and I was chicken to do that. I found where the marina was on the chart, so that I could direct Bob there. We were behind another sailboat at the Coronado Beach Bridge just before New Smyrna Beach (named by Greek immigrants), and I was afraid they would go into the Smyrna Marina, but they didn't. So we tied up by noon after a very traumatic start and 11 miles at 5.4 mph for a total of 844 nm. We walked up to the office and registered (filled out a form envelope - put money into it and stuck it through a slot). Municipal New Smyrna Marina from the river
Then we walked over to the Sea Harvest Seafood Restaurant which has only fried food. Service is quick and friendly. Food can be taken out or eaten on the deck outside. There is a big sign on the deck with reasons not to feed the birds, but the birds obviously ARE fed.
There was a sign warning against feeding the birds. It said:
Bird feeding sign
"To insure your dining pleasure while eating on the deck, Please DON'T FEED THE BIRDS!. After considerable thinking on our part we have come up with 7 good reasons why you shouldn't feed the birds. We could not think of 3 more to make 10 so 7 will just have to do.
-7 It's not good for humans to feed wild critters.
-6 They are really not that cute and cuddly.
-5 They don't pay taxes so why feed them.
-4 Don't you hate to sit down for dinner and have rude obnoxious guests show up.
-3 It's tough to carry on a conversation while being bombarded.
-2 Bird poop tasts really lousy on our fish. We provide Tarter sauce for that.
-1 They can mess up a really good hair day!
No Fishing
If you feel that you must feed the birds please go to the far end of the dock away from all the other guests."

RosalieAnn at the New Smyrna marina from the restaurant
They have fried chicken, shrimp, fish or seafood - either in a sandwich or in a basket with french fries and cole slaw. I had a good shrimp sandwich for lunch, and Bob had a seafood dinner in the evening. We ate out on the pier and the birds (gulls and grackles mainly) waited around to be fed. One of the grackles only had one leg.
I waylaid the postman and gave him post cards for our grandsons on the way back to the boat, and used the pay phone to get pocketmail. Bob as usual was too restless to just rest, so he walked over to a marine supply store and around Old Fort Park which was right by the marina. Then he cleaned the bimini curtains.
About 5 we walked back to the same place and got dinner there as neither of us felt like walking any more than that. I got chicken and Bob got a seafood dinner.
This time, there was a great egret and a bunch of plovers begging for food. The egret actually walked right up to the table.
Begging
On the way home, we saw the big orange full moon rise but my pictures of it didn't come out..
I saw a green heron on a dock line, and that night I saw a yellow crowned night heron walking around on the dock next to the boat. It also rained quite a bit.
December 12, 2000 Leaving New Smyrna Beach
Bob was up at 7, took up the trash and used the bathroom and I used the pay phone. Cast off at 8:15 without incident (high tide). Was a trifle foggy. Oops - Bob and I both forgot to put on our life jackets.
We motored under the fixed bridge just south of the marina (the place to go under isn't in the middle but way over on the end) on our way to Titusville.
End Flashback
I thought we might as well go I-95 up and come back on US 1, so as I was getting out the maps, Bob asked if 405 went to US 1, and it does so he turned on it. But it was the north end of 405 going south and took us on a long detour through the backside of Titusville including viewing the Titusville solid waste disposal area and the recycling plant. Whereas if we had taken 406, we would have cut about 10 miles off the trip. Oh well.
Skate Board Ramps

Bocce ball Courts
As we were getting to the route 44 exit for New Smyrna Beach, the car started to vibrate again, but Bob is convinced it must be the other tire. We got off and found the visitor's center from which we got a lot of maps and information. Visitor's Centers (when open) are a Good Thing. I asked them why the bridges in New Smyrna were painted pink, and they did not know.

Pink Bridge of New Smyrna from our boat in 2003
I asked if anyone had asked them that question before, and they said No.

Driving into New Smyrna Beach

Dunn Lumber store
I took this photo as we drove into New Smyrna. It seemed to be an early style building. It is actually Dunn Lumber, which has the Original Overhead Door of Daytona Beach and has been "Serving Volusia, Seminole, Orange, and Flagler Counties with building material needs since 1905.

Downtown Street
Then we saw a post office, so I stopped and mailed my package of lighthouse pictures off to Hatteras. We drove through the historic downtown

Historic site sign - no skateboarding
This site is best known for its "old fort" ruins. These are massive, intact coquina stone foundations of a building constructed by 18th-century colonists at New Smyrna's Turnbull settlement - the Old Fort name is a misnomer because it was not a fort.

"Old Fort" Ruins
Those people that don't actually know the history of the site think it is an old Spanish fort built in the 1500's by Menendez de Aviles (this was the speculation of John Detwiler, historian and first editor of the New Smyrna Breeze newspaper). Some say that Turnbull had started building a "palace" on a shell mound but only got as far as the "coquina" block foundation. Or was it the beginnings of a Catholic Church, or a Turnbull period warehouse? No one really knows. When we got to the Fort Historic site, we climbed up on it (it's about 6 feet above street level - just the foundations)

Bob walking up the Fort walls
And looked down to where the New Smyrna Marina was. It's completely gone. The ladies at the Visitor's Center prepared us by telling us that the Municipal Marina was gone. And indeed it was - nothing was there except the bulkhead, which they were working on. The whole thing had been wiped clean away.

Blank space at the bulkhead where the marina was

Waterfront WITHOUT the Municipal Marina
We walked across the square, past the library to the courthouse and where the monument to the original Greek settlers were.

City Hall across the square

Memorial

Monument opposite the City Hall
This stone commemorates the 1769 colony of Dr. Andrew Turnbull, a Scot, who had recruited 200 Greeks, 110 Italians and 1190 Minorcans to homestead his royal land grant of 101,000 acres. This was the site of the largest single attempt at colonial settlement in what is now the United States up to that time (eight vessels with 1,403 people).
Dr. Turnbull was a physician and entrepreneur who obtained a grant of land from the British Crown, with a and he named the colony "New Smyrna."
The colonists came prepared to till the soil, bringing with them farming implements, seeds, and cuttings of mulberry, grape, olive, orange and fig. The settlement produced the bulk of the indigo of the world during the revolution. They also made red dye of cochineal, and Barilla from weed gathered on the sea edge. Their system of drainage canals, the ruins of stone wharves indigo vats, wells and home sites are still to be seen. Nine years after founding the colony, the colonists were released from their contracts and moved to St. Augustine.
The stone says:
TO THE PAST
... TO THE PRESENT
...... TO THE FUTURE
Dedicated On This
200th Anniversay
In Honor Of Those
Intrepid Hellenes
Who Came To The New World in 1769
As Settlers Of The Historic New Smyrna Colony Of Florida
By Americans Proud Of Their
Hellenic Heritage
Who Cherish Their Participation
In The Great Ideals
Of Democracy And Freedom
As Embodied In Our
American Way Of Life
So That Generations Yet Unborn
May Fulfull The Hopes
Engendered By These
Priceless Legacies
_____________________
Presented by the
Order of AHEPA
American Hellenic Educational
Progressive Association
May 4, 1969
Church on town square

Banner on the Library
While we were looking at the Old Fort, I took this picture of the library. A website about it says:
"The New Smyrna Free Library (now the Connor Library Museum) was constructed by Washington Everett Connor in 1901. Mr. Connor, a New York stockbroker, personally maintained the building and paid the librarian's salary for 20 years. Originally located on the northwest corner of Faulkner and Washington Streets, the library was deeded to the City in 1924, with the stipulation that the City continue to maintain the building as a library.
"In 1940, the New Smyrna Free Library was moved into the newly completed Works Projects Administration (WPA) facility on Sams Avenue (now City Hall). After the relocation of the library, the New Smyrna Beach Garden Club used the original library building as its headquarters.
building would be allowed a graceful retirement. By 1990, the Connor Library stood abandoned and deteriorating and seemed a likely candidate
"Despite its illustrious beginnings, it did not appear that the for demolition. In 1991, the City of New Smyrna Beach moved the building to its present location in Old Fort Park. It remained in its dilapidated state in the park until 1994, when the building was completely restored and converted into a museum detailing the history of Southeast Volusia County."
In 2001, the Connor Library Museum celebrated its 100th anniversary. I did not know it was a museum, or I might have visited it-- or maybe it wasn't open at the time we were there - I don't really remember.

Museum with ADA wheel chair lift
By now it was about 11:45, and time to start looking for lunch.

Driving across the bridge
I directed Bob to drive across the bridge that used to be called the Coronado bridge which is a bascule bridge right by the Riverview restaurant and hotel which was the bridge tender's house. Originally, I had thought we might eat there - we tried to stay there on our boat one time, but they had no dock space except for some they were saving for a much bigger boat. But as the ladies at the information center had told us, they were only serving dinner. So we drove on out to the beach

Beach Buns Bakery/Cafe
I saw this place and thought it was a cute sign so I took a photo. I thought about stopping here for lunch, but it was on the wrong side of the street.
We were trying to get a view of the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse without going all the way north to get over to the other side. I did eventually see the top of it. We even went in the CG station, but could not see it from there.
Entrance to the Coast Guard Station
Possibly we could have seen it from the state park that was there, but we didn't go in there - the admission was more than we wanted to pay just to take a look at the lighthouse - which we've seen from the boat in any case.
We drove down the ocean side looking for a place to eat before we went to the Canaveral National Seashore which I knew would have nothing. Finally we passed the very LAST place (JB's Fish Camp and Seafood Restaurant which Bob didn't see because the sign was in the shade), and he turned around and we had lunch there.
Unattended Children will be used as Crab Bait
JB Fish Camp Restaurant menu - Southern Seafood with an Attitude
Stuffed deer in the Fish Camp restaurant
This is NOT Burger King
Drinks part of the menu
Outside seating
We ate inside, although there was outside seating available. Bob had half a pound of steamed spiced shrimp ($8.00)
Steamed Spiced Shrimp on the menu
Bob's shrimp
and I had a plain crabcake appetizer ($5.85).
Appetizer part of the menu
My appetizer crab cake
It was a reasonable sized crabcake and very good. That way I didn't have to have potato chips or a bun like in a sandwich. Then I had Florida orange cake.
Florida Orange Cake
According to the menu, they use Old Bay (which they described as a spicy crab boil for those that wouldn't know what it was) and Bob said the shrimp were very good, although he had some intestinal problems later. The place was pretty busy. It took us about an hour. It would have been less if we had gotten the bill sooner.
Our shrimp are guaranteed to catch a fish or die trying
Dock at the restaurant
Bob on the dock
They said that they were on the Indian River, and Bob and I were pretty sure it was Mosquito Lagoon,
Mosquito Lagoon
NOT the Indian River
as the Indian River is on the other side of the Haulover Canal. On looking it up later, I find that there seems to be a movement afoot to rename the Mosquito Lagoon as the Indian River Lagoon, just like Mosquito Inlet has become Ponce de Leon inlet.l
Mosquito Lagoon
Mosquitoes are bad PR.
Pelicans

Seagull
Entrance
We got to the entrance of the park at about 1300, and got in free with our Golden Age passport. We went to the visitor's center first and saw a tape on the park. The Canaveral National Seashore is split into two parts - a northern part and a southern part. You can't drive from the northern part to the southern part because the road does not go all the way through. Today we have entered the northern section by coming from New Smyrna. When we are in the InterCoastal Waterway, we are actually in the National Seashore on the Mosquito Lagoon side as far as the Haulover Canal where the ICW transits to the Indian River.
Sign about the plants of the seashore
Then we drove all the way out to the end of the road.
National Park Service Map
Bob sat in the car
Parking
while I went out to take a picture of the beach. There are strict prohibitions about walking on the dunes.
Prohibited sign

National Seashore
Seashore
Beach

Canaveral National Seashore
We went back to Eldora, where there is a house that is all that is left of the community of Eldora. On the walk in, we saw an armadillo (we saw one cross the road earlier and also saw a snake on the road). The armadillo kept sticking his head under the leaves.
Armadillo
They neither see nor hear very well, so he (or she) let us walk right up to him.
The house has been 'restored' and is called the Eldora State House. We saw another tape about the house and it's history with the last people
that lived there named Wells and about the restoration.
Eldora Village sign
Eldora information
Dolly's tombstone
Dolly the mule

Model of Eldora
Old photo of Eldora
On the River
Eldora house
Eldora
House at Eldora
There's no rational reason for it to be called the State House, as it was never the capitol. And the restoration has basically completely rebuilt the house - it looks like none of it is original except the floorboards downstairs, and maybe the cistern.
Cistern
Eldora house
We used the toilets out by the parking lot - they were kind of like airline toilets only bigger with a lever in the floor to let the waste through to a reservoir. There was no water for handwashing - they supplied waterless hand cleaner.
We drove across to the mainland on the other bridge (the fixed bridge). and set off down US 1 toward Titusville.
Two rocket boosters outside the HS gate
The high school has two rocket boosters outside the gate. We got back to the unit about 4:30.

Shrimp statue outside the restaurant
For dinner, we went out to Dixie Crossroads.We had been warned to go early and that it would be extremely busy on the weekend, so we got there before 6 and there were a lot of people standing around outside. But we found a parking place and got seated right away.

Menu/placemat
I had the

Lobster dinner $14.95
which was a good sized lobster. Bob had a small order of the fish of the day which was grouper for $10.99 and also had a sweet potato which was served with both regular butter and cinnamon butter.
Bob's grouper and sweet potato
He said it was a little rubbery and said he should have had the lobster. We each had two sides with our dinners - I had

Shrimp Soup
(clear broth with a lot of potatoes and a few little shrimp) and a sweet potato. Bob had a salad (ordinary looking)
Bob's side salad
They served us corn fitters with powdered sugar as the bread,

Corn fritters
and these were pretty good. The total including tip was a bit less than $38.00

Sign on the highway at night
Posted by greatgrandmaR 12:16 Archived in USA Comments (0)